After too long break we finally got to the cliffs again. The Central-America is not very good place for rock climbing as the tropical conditions are generally too hot and humid. This trip has caused the longest break I’ve ever had since I started climbing. Fortunately the surfing has compensated the lack of climbing well. Still we were very happy to change the continent as South-America is full of good climbing.
Suesca is a nice crag with more than 300 routes and some good boulders. The rock is very solid sandstone. The place is 2800 meters above the sea level so the temperature is nice and fresh. People are extremely friendly and the locals are proud of their beautiful cliffs. Climbers are welcomed and many comes from Bogota to spend their weekends climbing. During the week the place is empty. Only cows, dogs, chickens and horses are wandering under the cliffs.
There are many splendid traditional multpitches and some great bolted sport routes. Many climbs have mixed protection with bolts where placements are not possible. When we left Finland about year ago, we had to make some difficult choices what stuff not to take with, and sadly we then left all our trad gear home. Bad mistake. Now we have a small rack with 9 nuts and 4 friends, all bought on this trip. With that rack you can climb most of the routes in Suesca, sometimes a bit sparingly though, as you have to save gear for the reunions.
We got to Suesca after two long days of driving. The first stop was a climbing store, we needed a new rope and some other stuff. Off course it was closed, only open on weekends, and it was Monday. Luckily there was a phone number and the owner, Hernan, appeared shortly after the call. He happily sold us all we needed. He also find us a place for our camp. There is a nice camping place in front of the rocks, but we couldn’t use that as you can’t get there with a van. So we went to Sebastian’s back yard.
Sebastian is a cool climbing guide who lives near the rocks with his wife Sandra and their young son Elias. He's a full on life style climber who spend most of his time on the cliffs. He let us camp on his front yard and use his shower and toilet with affordable prize. As a keen guy he was climbing with us most of the days showing us tens of beautiful routes. And there is so many nice routes in Suesca. There are plenty of gigantic roofs, long exhausting fissures and crazy overhangs. More than 300 routes, and most of them worth climbing. We spend three weeks there climbing as much as our bodies could handle.
The rock has got a lot of character. You can see dramatic shapes everywhere and there is strong vibe of passed millenias on the rock.
On weekends there was many people from Bogota, relaxing and climbing. The place never got too crowded as there are so many routes to climb. There was also Dona Maria selling delicious empanadas, so you didn't have to care too much about the lunch.
Virgin Mary is taking care that now one gets hurt while climbing. So very Catholic. Under the saint there was strenuous 5.12 traverse called Heroes never Die.
The crag is at least a kilometer long and it has got more than ten sectors. The railroad makes approaches very easy.
View from the top of the cliff. Colombian countryside with plenty of cows. People are camping on the pasture.
Our place on Sebastian's front yard. Six o clock in the morning.
Iitu enjoying good friction of Sebastian's route called Payaso
Over the small roof and that's about it!
Teemu flashing the same route
Me resting after the slab and getting ready for the roof on a route No lloren Princesas.
Iitu leading boldly the first pitch of a beautiful route called LP. She has developed really good nerves for trad climbing with a small rack.
Me on the beginning of the second pitch of LP. Nice and airy!
Iitu starting the third pitch of LP. Pretty cool ledge under the roof.
The top anchors are easy to build using the natural squires that the rock forms.
Sebastian also has a small boulder wall on his front yard.
And a "slack line" made out of eucalyptus tree. Sebastian teaching some balance for Elias . The little guy is four years old and already climbing eagerly.
Iitu leading the bit sketchy first pitch of El Vivac. The rock looks and sounds loose on some parts of the route, but it's still fantastic route and the roofs are spectacular.
Teemu trying to solve the crux of second pitch of El Vivac
The second pitch ends to a nice airy traverse under the huge roof.
Iitu on a nice route called Vuelo Nocturno. Note the huge gray beards that are growing on a rock. You find those pretty much from every sector. There are legends that the beards are hiding some ancient caves used by indians.
Me negotiating the crux of El Acrobata.
Teemu -setä having fun with Elias under the cliff.
Enjoying the warmth of a campfire. The nights were quite chilly in Suesca.
Me arms pumped on a overhanging sport route Haztelo Panchito.
Suesca was one of the nicest rock climbing spots I've ever visited, and it was for sure the friendliest. Thanks a lot Sebastian, Sandra and Elias for taking such a good care of us and showing us great routes! We will definitely come back one day!
